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Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, by Andrew Bolton
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A stunning look at the paradoxical relationship between the artisanal and the technological in fashion
The complex and often ambiguous relationship between the hand crafted and the machine made is examined in this intriguing look at the ever-changing world of fashion and taste. Manus x Machina traces styles of dress from one-of-a-kind works and haute couture created by highly skilled artisans, through the introduction of industrial manufacturing, to extraordinary recent technological advancements applied to high fashion, such as 3D printing, laser cutting, and computer-generated weaving and patterns. The oppositional relationship between the machine, as representative of democracy and mass production, and the hand, as the hallmark of elitism, is explored in its many facets in this fascinating book.
Paradoxically, technology in fashion has both advanced artistic creation and obscured the sense of the designer’s expert hand. Similarly, handmade garments have come to represent either a nostalgia for lost craftsmanship or, in haute couture, a cult of personality and affluence. Interviews with renowned and cutting-edge designers such as Sarah Burton, Karl Lagerfeld, and Miuccia Prada discuss how technology can blur the line between haute couture and prêt-à-porter, and ultimately question the relevance of the distinction between hand and machine.
A tour de force in art book production, Manus x Machina incorporates two volumes into its innovative package. The main volume of the book includes a smaller hand-sewn booklet, which features the printed interviews, tucked into the back jacket flap. The outer cover of the main volume is made of three-ply plastic layers with high-frequency weld and die-cut flaps. The paperback cover is die cut (modelled on the punch cards used in the first automated weaving looms), and the main volume includes 5 different paper stocks and silver foil stamping, and is printed with both high-density and ultraviolet inks. The book also features new photography of extraordinary pieces, including intricate 19th-century floral designs by William Morris, handcrafted haute couture of designers such as Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen, and the specatuclar 3D creations of Iris van Herpen.
- Sales Rank: #72822 in Books
- Published on: 2016-05-31
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 13.20" h x 1.00" w x 9.10" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 248 pages
Review
“The book is a beauty to behold. A large format paperback with a plastic jacket to protect its precious interior, Manus x Machina is an object of art unto itself. With silvery mylar inserts, vellum overlays, silver ink, and four color plates, the book is adds a highly tactile experience to the traditional illustrated book, reminding us of the power of hand and machine to work together as one.”—Crave (Crave)
‘Written by Andrew Bolton [the accompanying book]has 256 pages, 250 colour illustrations and interviews with some of the many contributors, who include Hussein Chalayan, Iris van Herpen and Miuccia Prada.’ - Aesthetica (Aesthetica 2016-06-01)
About the Author
Andrew Bolton is curator in charge of The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Most helpful customer reviews
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Most Enjoyable Read - Get Your 'Hands' on This!
By Joanne M. Fiume
Saw the exhibit 'first hand', and it was fabulous. This catalog couldn't contain all the fabulous pieces, as they were too numerous. However, there are many garments shown in their entirety along with close-up photographs highlighting the stitching and complex construction.
There is also information on fashion, construction and other techniques used throughout history and information on businesses used to supply the flowers, feathers and specialty items used so many years ago (some of which are still in business today). At the end of the book is a glossary of terms relating to the industry.
For anyone even peripherally interested in clothing/fashion, this is a wonderful read. The only disappointment was the photo of Karl Lagerfeld's wedding dress, which was the inspiration for the Manus x Machina Exhibit. In person it was spectacular - the embroidery on the train was exquisite - I do not believe the photo in the book did it justice, and I would have liked a close-up of the embroidery. But, then again, perhaps it is impossible to capture Karl Lagerfeld's genius in a photo!
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Beware defective books
By sgrude
Beautiful book and exhibit; per other reviews.
Beware of defective copies. My first copy has pages printed out of order (page 125 printed both at 125 and instead of 163).
Ordered a replacement copy from Amazon and it's the same. I guess the entire run of books is defective.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
A great book. I visited the exhibition at the Met
By Lilianadat
A great book. I visited the exhibition at the Met, and it is a pleasure to have the possibility of remember it through this book. Luxurious. Beautiful. Wonderful photos and detailed information. Without doubt, a must have!
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